TGO 2018 Glen Elg to Kinnaber Links

TGO 2018 

Glen Elg to Kinnaber Links

Preamble, Self Pity, Uncharitable Thoughts, and Explanation 

Why Glen Elg? Well as I explained in blog 1, when I learned of the sign out book in the

porch - and of course knowing Glen Elg, there was no choice. It had to be. I then devised a method - too much choice is not necessarily a good thing. I could have taken ages agonising over which start point to use so the method was - start from the point that had the lowest number of starters the previous year that I had not started from. Glen Elg qualified on this basis as well.


In 2018 (and I am writing this in 2019) the start point with the fewest starters that I had not used was Ardrishaig. As I said to Sue'n'Ali at the time, I was a little disappointed. I had hoped for Torridon or Kilchoan - but I have spent a happy time since April plottting a route from Ardrishaig and I have thoroughly warmed to it. It connects the magnificent neolithic and bronze age sites of Kilmartin Glen with the standing stones of Aberlemno. It takes in one of my favourite Scottish Mountains, Cruach Adrain. It describes a magnificent high level arc around Glen Artney, luxuriates in Dunkeld, and eventually potters to the cairn erected to mark the 25th anniversary of the TGO challenge at Scurdie Ness. I was organised. And then came the very unwelcome email. I was 50th on the waiting list for 2020. November has been hard. Harder still the email that said I had not got a place. I have looked - briefly- at the message board and all the happy chat about routes, meet ups and cheese and wine parties. I just cannot cope with such merriment, banter and general bonhomie. Perhaps - you never know - our national borders will be in such disarray next May that none of our challengers from foreign climes can get in and Sue'n Ali will say - Janet - you have a place. But I don't suppose that will happen. Well - I have plan B.

To return to 2018. There will be no photos after Glen Elg till day 4 - a result of a very foolish move on day 2 which will be explained then. If you just want to see some very amateurish photos just skip to day 4. Otherwise;


Last minute preparations.

Much reading of MWIS and other forecasts and information about snow conditions. Seemed to be a lot of snow about especially in North facing gullies. Invested in a Grivel Condor (this is gear junkie stuff). A good stout walking pole with a retractable ice axe pick. You couldn't use it for anything remotely technical but certainly enough to arrest a slip. Plus some microspikes. I didn't actually use the microspikes although I should have done on day 2 and I found the pole / axe a very comforting bit of kit.


Day  minus 1. To Glen Elg



To Inverness by sleeper from Crewe. As usual far too excited to sleep. Arrived at Inverness without .mishap and met Jim at the bus station also catching the CityLink bus but he was starting at Dornie. He had done loads of challenges and if I could remember half of what he said I would know all about obscure routes good pitches and shops and cafes that are good places for challengers. Great drama just outside Inverness. A tour bus caught fire in front of us. And I mean sheets of flame and explosions as the tyres and fuel tanks went. Traffic and onlookers admirably directed by our bus driver and another and eventually the fire engine arrived and we went on a very scenic detour along very narrow lanes through woodland. Back on route we eventually came to Kintail. Northern corries packed with snow but it seems to have mainly blown off the ridges and the Southern slopes are fine. Bus further held up by roadworks by the Clunie and a convoy of an abnormal load. 3 huge trucks each carrying the blade of an enormous wind turbine. With police cars and escort vehicles clearing the road. So by the time I got to Shiel Bridge it was nearly 12 and I went to the Kintail lodge for lunch and found another challenger. Just flown in from Chicago. Never been to Scotland. Gawping at the views.


I am staying with Maggie at Glen Elg (recommended by John Jocys with good reason). Maggie was born on Lewis and is a Gaelic speaker but she married John 38 years ago and has lived in Glen Elg ever since. I told her I would get the bus and walk over the Mam Rattagan however as I got to the Top of the pass a ferocious sleety haily squall started which was a bit unfair and there was Maggie come to give me a lift as she had seen the squall coming over and thought I might prefer to be driven. Well I could hardly say no. Then in the evening the sun was out again and I walked over to the ferry and pottered round Bernera Barracks before heading to the Glen Elg Inn for a substantial meal.
      

Over Mam Ratgan before the squall

Glen Elg Bay

Ferry to Skye

Bernera Barracks

Day 1 11th May 2018 my first ever FWA


It was another sleepless night. Maggie had 2 other guests, a young German couple. On their way back from a meal at the Glen Elg Inn he managed to fall of a wall and break his ankle- no neither Maggie nor I understood how he did it. There was a great kerfuffle His girlfriend eventually drove him to the nearest A and E - Broadford on Skye. Maggie was concerned that he wouldn't be able to get upstairs so she made up a bed for him in the living room. They got back at about 3am. He insisted on going upstairs with his plaster cast and crutches. I then just lay awake till dawn and I suspect Maggie did too. We were both flaked out in the morning - I had breakfast - no sign of the other guests, listened to the weather forecast and considered the conditions. It was pretty blustery. Plan A had to be to climb the Graham Beinn a Chaphuill, then Beinn Sgritheal and camp in Coire Min. 


I set out along Gleann Beag undecided. It was a fine day with rain forecast mid afternoon but strong gusts of wind. I had walked this way in March so had seen the brochs quite recently but they are always worth a second visit. Got to Strath a Chomair where I would have crossed the bridge to ascend the very tempting looking ridge of Beinn a Chaphuill and thought - No. FWA for me today. Lets get over Bealach Aoidhdailean  and position myself for an ascent of the Saddle the next day.  It would be a good thing to get the tent up before the rain came and have some sleep. So I climbed up the track that heads up Allt a  Coire Odhair and found a nice little pitch under Mullach Gorm. And had an early night. 
                       

Day 2 in which I do 3 foolish things (but have a lot of fun in some fantastic country)

A rather better day today. Fine, still clear and just right for an early start up the Ridge between Mullach Gorm and the West top of the Saddle.In fact a very early start as I am awake at 4 and start getting up at 5. Mullach Gorm is a very pleasant ridge with a faint footpath along then top but I am wary of the West top of the Saddle. The only account I can find of someone going that way is on the Walkhighlands site by a chap called Steve who went up from Shiel bridge but didn't fancy the top and backed off. So I am prepared to back off but then spot a line that may address any problems. I can descend to the East on some grass, cross an area that is a bit bouldery and wet but then there is a a line of grass up to the ridge avoiding the West top. It would have been fine in dry conditions but the steep grass to the ridge has just shed a covering of snow. All the blades of grass are lined up pointing downhill. It is steep, very slippery and hard work and the ice axe serves its term by turf bashing. It would have been better (as it usually is) to stay on the ridge. Foolish thing number 1. However once on the ridge I take some spectacular photos of snow on the ridge heading North from the trig point and generally recover my breath before descending into Coire Mhalagain and heading up Sgurr na Sgine.I drop down a long easy South ridge to avoid the rocky nose and  follow fence posts up  Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais. Last time I was here it was to climb a double headed Corbett but apparently it has been "demoted" and it now has a slightly neglected air with a narrowing and faint path.I feel it needs some love and attention. I continue to follow the fence posts based on the principle that if someone went this way to put up a fence the ground can't be that bad. Mistake number 2 as they go up some horrible ground and when I look at the guide I have printed out it says go South and leave the fence posts. This is as nothing to mistake number 3. As I climb Creag nan Damh disaster strikes. There is an awkward little down climb just before the summit. My pack sticks and I take it off. No I am not that stupid I don't drop it but lower it and climb down after it. And when pack and I are unattached I manage to kick it with my heel and in ghastly slow motion the pack tumbles over onto the top of a snow filled gully and continues to tumble over the lip and down in the general direction of the battle of Glenshiel (1719). Has anyone ever retired from the challenge on day 2 - cause lost pack? Well I find a safe bit of ground, climb down and after what seems like a very long time I spot the pack and retrieve it. In fact it hasn't actually gone very far and the only casualty (except my nerves) is a smashed phone screen. I am actually tempted to pitch where the pack has landed which is quite a pleasant little hollow but decide to get the climb back over and have a fabulous pitch on a fine evening in the bealach before Sgurr Beag. Climb into sleeping bag feeling very silly and relieved. 

Day 3 In which I exercise caution and restraint

I awake to rain, and consider taking my FWA, the path from the bealach to the River Loyne but decide to give the next 3 Munros a go and reconsider options before Aonach Air Chrith where there is another stalkers path to Glen Loyne. The 3 Munros go well and by lunchtime I have all 3 under my belt. Meet a couple of lads who have also camped high going in the other direction and they are very positive. The snow forms some magnificent architecture including a great church window at one stage. I am walking in the mist seeing fleeting views around. Every so often I get views into huge corries and down steep drops and then into mist with just the ridge ahead and behind for company. Reach my turn off decision place. Still misty and I can’t see what the climb to Aonach Air Chrith is like. I can vaguely remember it but haven't been over it for a very long time and I would like to have a look before committing with a full pack. So I walk down into the glen. As soon as I do the mist clears and the tops are bathed in sunshine. I don’t regret the move. I am in a glen I have never visited . The stalkers path is the biggest set of zig zags I can remember. Must have upped my mileage count considerably doing them all. Obviously used but not a great deal. It is warm and sunny and I take my coat off and enjoy a drink and a flapjack. Trundle down the valley to where a path branches off to cross Mam na Seilg. My vetter warned me that the river crossing can be tricky- well I had no problems. He also says the next bit is incredible boggy with no defined path. He is certainly right about that. He then says it becomes a delightful path. Well it climbs through heather alongside a burn and is very pleasant with magnificent retrospective views of snow on the ridge. I stop at the top. The best views are to the North of the bealach so this is where I put the tent. Its boggy, not very flat but I think the views compensate. I am a bit ahead of myself so plan is to walk to Invergarry to see if my B and B can accommodate me a day early.

Day 4 The scariest experience I have ever had in the Highlands (well in fact on the road to Inverness)

So after a very good night's sleep during which another challenger apparently tip toes past me I trundle South and downhill (sounds a bit effete put like that). Come across another tent and a man having breakfast. Apparently he passed me last night at the end of a very long day. We chat and I tell him about my bust phone and he promises to inform Challenge control of the problem and that I am still OK. He is off to Meall na Teanga and the other one. I can never remember the name of the Munro on the other side of the Cam Bealach and it is now fixed in my mind as "the other one". I wonder what is the Gaelic for "the other one"? Possibly Sron a Choire Ghaibh. No matter. I potter down to the road. along to Poulary, look at the ground on the other side of the bridge and think "no thanks". Continue on the road past the old Tomdoun Hotel to the bridge over towards Greenfield which looks much better so I amble through the forestry in solitary splendour until I spot someone ahead. It is the fantastic Esther - from the Netherlands, living in Edinburgh, one of the very few who has who has completed the Scottish National Trail. Not fast - Esther does not do speed, but she gets to the finish. So we chat - I carry on and we meet again later that day in the Invergarry campsite where she organises a washing machine. Esther is a woman with considerable organisational skills. 

My B and B is full so I cannot book in a day early - hence the campsite - but I am informed that the best place to sort out the phone is Inverness and the landlord kindly looks up the bus times for me (but confuses the Inverness and Fort William buses). So having gone to the campsite, put the tent up, left the smelly washing with Esther and headed for the bus stop I find I have missed the bus by 10 minutes. Without any degree of optimism I stick a thumb out and 3 cars later someone stops. Now he is a really nice lad and you must not hold it against him that he works at the Glen Doe windfarm. We stop off in Fort Augustus to unpack his shopping at his lodgings and then get held up by the  Fort Augustus swing bridge. We are the first car waiting for the bridge to swing back which means the road from Fort Augustus to Inverness is clear. So my driver can put his foot down. Which he does. We speed along Loch Ness - I think I shut my eyes at 75mph and my knuckles were clenched and white. He drops me off in Inverness, I gave him copious thanks and some money for the fuel and creep away to shake and tremble a little by myself.

Then I hit the 'phone shops. Discovered I could not get the screen replaced today. Could not upgrade my 'phone on my contract without paying a lot of money for an early upgrade. Options are 

• Do nothing
• Buy a cheap pay as you go
• buy a sim free smartphone and transfer sim.

Now what do I use a 'phone for? I had to do a quick appraisal. Top of the list is that I use it as a camera. I use the downloaded maps - not essential but comforting especially now I know that the little red arrow is me. I use the kindle app to read myself to sleep every night. I write my diary on the 'phone - in the form of an email home that I send when I get to somewhere with wifi. Shamed to admit but use it to update my Facebook page and catch up with my friends. And right at the bottom of the list - I use it as a 'phone. So what do I do? Gulp and buy a new smart phone. And return to Invergarry in a sober and steady fashion on the bus.

Day 5 In which I momentarily think I know better than a compass until sense prevails

Tuesday dawned as bright and sunny as Monday so I put on a short sleeved shirt and sunblock. Walked the 1.7 miles to the village. Found from the crossing lady that the post office was about to open. Postmistress found me a used jiffy bag some sellotape and a pen and I posted home the micro spikes and the plug that came with my new phone. Set off along the Great Glen way north to Aberchalder. Meet a West coast Canadian walking the Great Glen way. Not sure I would have travelled that distance to walk parallel to the road. Get to Aberchalder and the wind gets up. I follow a track way up the side of Glen Buck to a little lodge that is (as I discover) a bothy.

When I planned this route I viewed photos of this track on Geograph as an ancient, little used track. Now it's a vehicle track for a hydro scheme. Easy walking but not so attractive but the views across the Glen are fine and I spot a pair of walkers with big packs on the other side just as I was thinking how few people were likely to come this way. . More challengers I am sure but they turn up a side Glen and don't come my way. I have a break at the bothy and waste time and effort going up a track that looks as though it could be useful but is a dead end at the hydro scheme. Nothing for it I have to start at the bothy take a bearing -South - and set off over the trackless waste. It's colder. It's misty. It's raining that annoying rain that can't make it's mind up if it's just mist or actual rain. Some ancient vehicle tracks help for a bit but then I am on my own. Good Scottish bog.I am convinced that the right direction is towards a stand of trees but when I check the compass things don't make a lot of sense. I have a crisis of confidence which is resolved by checking and rechecking the bearing checking the GPS on my phone and having a good look round at what I could see. Not a lot. I follow a narrow defile steeply up between 2 very minor tops over a patch of peat hags at the top and over a wide wet bowl of land before the waters coalesce into the South running burn I needed. As I descend to Glen Turret I know the burn would drop down a gorge and I would need to follow steep grassy slopes to the side. It all worked and I stopped at the bottom look round and to have a drink and a biscuit. Only to smell a nasty smell and find I had settled by a dead sheep. Good thing my water came from upstream. I am in upper Glen Turret and as I walk down the Glen it gets brighter and the sun comes out. It's the best part of the day and it's so pleasant I feel no desire to stop. Walk past Annat and the occupant solicitously inquires if I am looking for the bothy. I explain I am camping high and he comments on my tan.I then confidently leave his yard by way of the wrong gate.

There is then a delightful path (when you find it in the heather) that leads up to some waterfalls called the Dog falls. It's a brilliant spot despite all the good pitches being on the other side of an active river. Eventually find a spot my side and now very comfortable

Day 6 in which I frustrate young love

From my pitch I follow the river higher towards the corries on the North side of Creag Megaidh. I failed to notice that the path crossed the river and I stayed on the west bank but frankly I would have struggled to get over a very full river and I would have needed to recross further up so my inattention was actually the right decision (had I made a decision).I cut across fairly easy heather moorland to climb up the Bealach a Bharnish who is between Meagaidh and the Munro Bein a Chaorainn which is the one with 3 tops and they keep changing their mind as to which is the top. I have to avoid snow as I climb to the bealach.  There is masses in the northern corries and some large patches on the ridge so the ice axe came out.  I join a fence line and strode out in the sunshine. Got to the top gawped and found a very weak signal 'phone signal and rang home.  Young German chap came up- it was his first time in Scottish mountains. I said he had picked a good day for it. Despite the sunshine it was pretty cold and I had coat on hood up and was contemplating gloves. Carried on along the ridge meeting another German emerging from the rock hard snow in the window. Frankly I would have been wearing crampons and had an ice axe out - not bendy boots and walking poles - but he survived.  I kept stopping for photos but carried on along the ridge which  is pretty easy way to climb 2 more Munros.

  Only problem was lack of water which I solved by boiling up some old snow for a cuppa.  Bit gritty but did the job. I then  carried on along the ridge for miles.  It keeps high and although grassy on the top there are some big rocky drops to the South. I wanted to get into Glen Shirra in order to cross to the unnamed Graham (Creag Ruadh) opposite . It was a very long way down in heather to Allt Crunachdain but it led me eventually eventually to an old track which ran along an extremely attractive wooded valley. I was astonished to see a vehicle approaching as there was no sign that this track had been driven for years.  It turned out to be a young lad and his girlfriend.  He had obviously borrowed his dad's pick up and was looking for a nooky spot. They were far more surprised to see me than I was to see them and they retreated doubtless very frustrated. 

My route had me crossing Glen Shirra and camping high at Loch na Lairige. However at the end of my lovely valley was an abundance of pitches with good water and good views.  Glen Shira (at this point) seemed to be a completely full with tussocks  which did not look inviting. My Graham was festooned with power lines not shown on my map and an ugly access road. What would my friend Neil do particularly as it was now 5pm?  Well I am pretty sure  he would have said something about putting the tent up where you know there is a good pitch. And I totally agreed with him 

Day 7 in which once again I fail to find a cave

PItch was first rate. It was warm where I was but apparently a lot of people had frost that night. Morning was bright warm and sunny and although I originally thought that to cross Glen Shirra would be a slog through heather and tussocks, I found a useful track not marked on map and crossed easily and by 9.30 I was on my first Graham.  

Descent was fun. I had planned  to would descend  NE ridge between deciduous and coniferous forests. Set off down side of coniferous plantation and saw I would need to climb a deer fence.  So  went through the broken fence into the plantation  as it looked as if I could walk down a firebreak. Having got trapped in the deepest most glutinous mud I have experienced for quite a while I retreated to the deer fence,  climbed it and after a while found myself in a "Walkers are welcome" type area. A good track that took me easily to the road through a little plantation. Gates all in order - would not have been surprised to see a bench and an interpretive sign telling me about the wildlife. Stopped at the road for a good drink as the heat was getting up.

Followed the very quiet - but hot - back road to Laggan. Now I know it is an unspoken rule of the challenge that a stop must be made at every cafe and especially the one at Laggan but I had not long had a break, I was walking well and as I got to the cafe a large car disgorged a huge family party that strode into the cafe with the definite look of people who are going to hold you up with enormous complicated orders. So I carried on. Now the plan was to follow the track from Cluny Castle then East to Spirean Beag and Creag Dubh. But the road was a lot quieter than I expected and my eye kept wandering to another track that seemed to lead to Cluny's Cave. My imagination was working overtime. I thought this must be the popular route to a  visitor attraction. Probably a car park at the bottom - with an ice cream van. Improved tourist path to climb easily to visit the cave with a well defined route up to the summit. So abandoned plan A for the approach to Cluny's Cave. Got to the turn off at the start of the track. Across a field was a faint tractor line. Double checked and rechecked my position. Followed tractor track. To be fair the track did exist after a fashion along the way marked on the map (but this was not the tourist route). Got to the vast area which OS covers with writing - "Uamh Chluanaidh (Cluny's Cave)". Well I can't say I squared the entire area but I had a good look round. No cave. Apparently it is on a steep face above Lochan Uvie. 

Caves I have failed to find;

Ogof Owain Glyndwr on Moel yr Ogof

Llewelyn's Cave near Llandeilo

Prince Charlie's Cave Loch Beoraid - in fact any number of Prince Charlie's caves all over the place. So it is no great surprise that I failed to find this one

However Creag Dubh is gorgeous. The hill is a long very knobbly ridge and as I was thinking how like the Rhinogydd it was a herd of goats came in to view (if you don't know the Rhinogydd - then you are in for a treat and they also have herds of wild goats).  Brilliant views. Only criticism is for the idiot who took the path on the precipitous descent down the cliff covered in birch trees (Well may be I exaggerate) but ere long it's a gentle walk through the woods to Newtonmore.  I reach the hostel and camp as all the beds are full but to be honest that suits me better and the welcome could not be warmer.

Day 8 An easy short day (hollow laughter) 

So Janet they said at Newtonmore. Where are you going today? Well I am going to cross the Nuide Moss on one of these tracks and then drop over to Bhran Cottage and cross one of the bridges. Oh no you are not they said. You had better speak to Ali. Right says Ali. Neither of those paths exist on the ground. Neither of those bridges exist. There is a ford here (pointing at map). I went through it up to my knees but the river was only flowing slowly so it was safe. I have heard of people going to the dam to get over the river.

I get supplies from the co-op and walk down to cross the A9 and head east. Set off on  path 1 over the Nuide Moss and think Ali is wrong. (heresy) This path works. And so it does for a while then swings totally off course towards path 2. I am quite happy to do that but not so happy when it stops. Never mind I can see a good track 500m away where path 2 should be. So a bit of bog trotting later I arrive at good track which is swinging NE. Unfortunately I want to go SE. So more bog trotting which is actually very interesting as I am following the line of the old path looking for archaeological traces. Every so often I see signs of where it was once engineered. Get to a deer fence and find traces of old gate. Climb deer fence. Have to cross minor riverlet and find stepping stones and footings of ancient bridge.

 A fascinating if strenuous crossing. I am now on Wades military road and intend to follow a track up the Allt Ghiubhais. This does exist and I make easy progress to a low bealach and some not too serious cross country yomping to Glen Tromie. 

On  the other side of the river Bhran I can see Bhran lodge. I can see a fine track leading easily where I want to go. I ignore  bridge 1 which I have been told does not exist and head for the ford. Well it may have been slow flowing when Ali crossed. With all the snow melt was moving at a cracking pace.  I checked bridge 2. Definitely missing. Well half was still there. Some cyclists whizzed along on the other side.I studied my map. There was a further bridge upstream.  My route does not go upstream but there is no option. I plough through thick heather up stream looking for a suitable crossing spot. The river charges along with great velocity.  Get to scene of bridge 3 very attractive and dramatic gorge. No bridge. By now I can see the dam of the Loch an t- Seilich reservoir.  It's my only option. By now I have walked 3 Km upstream from where I needed to cross . And eventually I manage to cross at the dam and meet 2 lady challengers (Barbara and friend who have come from Balsporran Cottage).  They are just setting off eager to make up ground. I stop for a drink and a bite to eat. I have noted on the map a path which if it exists is a short cut to the Allt Bhran and my original route. Stop at the gate leading to it and have an overwhelming sense of deja vu. I have done this before. I have stood at this gate looking down the valley to where you can see a farm and debating whether to stay on a good track or take this short cut. (31st May 2010 a I discover when looking back through my diaries) and I know the short cut works.So I follow a wet but adequate path through a small plantation and as descend to the glen to an old dam crossing the river. Carry on to where the Allt na Cuilce joins the Allt Bhran. It's a good spot I am shattered.  It's time to put the tent up and have a brew.

Day 9  A high lonely wilderness walk- one of the best

All the frustrations of yesterday forgotten. Today it was me and the mountains lots of deer a few hares and a slow worm. Plan is to climb to the trig point on Leathad an Taobhain and follow the boundary line to Carn an Fhidhleir, An Sgarsoch and down to Geldie lodge. First thing was a climb over something An Eilrig to a track that leads to a 912 spot height on Leathad an Taobhain. 

In a rather dozy fashion I wondered why this was not a Munro as I was pretty sure it wasn't. It is of course a Corbett and my diary tells me that I had climbed it this way before. Now I am basically following the water shed South of Glen Feshie culminating in my 2 Munros.  It goes over all sorts of little tops some named and some not. I imagined a fence line and a regular path. Oh no. No one goes here not even the old fence builders. The going is not too bad despite a few areas of peat hags.  The  navigation needs care which I did not apply on one occasion as I strode swiftly to a prominent cairn only to realise I was off in the wrong direction. However it was a pleasure to visit An Sligearnach. I used my GPS a few times today and it would have been a very challenging route in mist. But it was a real sense of wilderness. Thoroughly enjoyed it.  Got to the bealach below Carn an Fhidleir. No Munro baggers path this way up. 

Stunning viewpoint on the top looking North to the Cairngiom plateau.  Still a lot of snow in the northern corrie but I am going South East for what seems like miles as the path meanders down towards the bealach.  Then without warning the path stops and there seems no sign of a baggers path up the second Munro.  I stop for drink and  food and watch an athletic Munro bagger power down to the bealach and start looking for a path on the other side. I leave him to it and set off up the mountain at a conservative back packers pace. Pause to enjoy the  views from the top.  Longest part of the day or so it seems is getting off. I head down a perfectly sensible north ridge East of Coire an Tobhair but it's when I get to the valley floor that it takes ages as I follow the watercourse to Geldie lodge. Fine pitches here but someone is already camped there. Now I get a bit anti sociaI I don't really want to get involved in chit chat and I want to wash my knickers in peace and I want to make sure before I settle down that the next river crossing is not going to involve a 3Km detour so I carry on for a bit and cross the Geldie burn without any problems. Put the tent up with only an easy trundle to Braemar in the morning.

Day 10 - A problem of etiquette

After my immensely satisfying walk of yesterday I had quite a blustery night but I was camped low and in a sheltered spot by the Geldie Burn. From here it is basically downhill on good tracks to Braemar. I had a moment of social embarrassment .There was a large pack on  the path but no sign of its owner.  I approached with some concern trying to recall my first aid training and the protocol for instituting a search. However I spot it's owner (a lady of mature years) just off the path engaged in...well let us just say she was attending to a call of nature.  What does one do. Should I call out a cheery good morning or just carry on. I chose the latter and having canvassed the views of other challengers in Braemar this would be the option of choice of most. Had it been just a pee I think on balance a greeting would have been appropriate. I am bit undecided about that. At White Bridge I meet Esther the lady I first met in Invergarry.  We had walked totally different route and meet up by chance in the middle of nowhere miles later - which is of course what happens on the challenge. We walked into Braemar together.In Braemar we made for Gordon's the cafe of choice for Challengers and had lunch with Colin who did his first challenge 30 years ago. He had only done 6 over the years but as he is about to retire hoped to make it more regular. He is also the cleanest and most dapper backpacker I have ever met. I continue eating and drinking all day and buying more supplies.  I am in a dorm at the YHA. with 5  lady challengers. One young and dashing, also carrying an ice axe and hitting the hills although she has to hurry back along the Dee valley Way. Barbara,  one of the pair I met at the dam while trying to cross the river. Girl with stitches in her eyebrow following fall at Gairlochy and 2 young girls who seemed to be on their knees. It was a peaceful night. 

Day 11. On which I have bags of energy and thus walk past the obvious pitch

Good weather.  Not sunny but dry clear and breezy. Good day for walking and I made the most of it doing 20 plus miles and 5 Munros. Which as I shall explain is a bit too far.  Start by walking past the Braemar golf course and cross the bridge and road to Glen Callater. Obviously I call in Lochallater lodge which I learnt last year is a TGO institution.  It can sleep 25 and has plenty of room for camping and the nights are legendary for consumption of beer and singing. Sunday night is always the highlight and there were a few frail challengers still there when I arrived. I am remembered from last year and enjoy a chat about my route. Fortified with coffee and bacon butty I set up a long track to the plateau and my first Munro Carn an Tuirc.  These are are not wildly memorable mountains but there is plenty  of springy turf, generally easy going, the occasional stony area on the top. Carn an Tuirc is  bit out on a limb and you have to retrace your steps to reach the next one Carn of Claise. I spent a little time with the compass there as I needed to go East along a boundary line (on map) to Tolmount. I gazed across an area of flat featureless turf with no sign of a hill or a boundary line.  Leaving the cairn South however (the obvious line) I would have walked along a wall line to a big hill. Not the right hill though. (debating point - how can one say that this is the right hill and that one isn't? Is it not the case that all hills are of equal value?)  So I set out East and eventually the modest peak of Tolmount and it's equally modest neighbour Tom Bhuidhe came into view. The hills were quite popular today with solitary male walkers.  One with his dog. One who raced round. One in shorts who seemed unsure where he was and was keen to find a path and one who asked if I was on the challenge. After the 4th solitary male hill walker I continued South along the ridge heading for Mayer.  A couple of km after Tom Bhuidhe is a burn called the Fialzioch burn where I intend to pitch BUT its

only 3pm and I am feeling full of vigour. I continue over further lumps and an area of peat hag to the final climb up Mayer which from this angle is a conical user friendly top.  Here I make a cardinal error. I don't do what Neil would have done (I asked him but ignored his advice). Just before Mayer is a perfect pitch. Level grass, good water, shelter. But I am eager to get  closer to Dreish. My route takes me down the Kilbo path to Glen Clova that leaves the ridge just before Dreish and my plan is to pitch near the top of the path and do Dreish as an out and back in the morning  before descending to Glen Clova. So over Mayer I go. There is no water. I scoured the area and it became obvious that I would either have to (a) retrace my steps back over Mayer or (b) cross Dreish and hope there is some water the other side or (c) drop down the path I intended to use in the morning and forget about Dreish.  Another option was to do the out and back this evening and then drop off the ridge but I had enough sense not to be so silly as to contemplate that. For more than a moment. The descent path was hard work, at least it was at the end of the day. It goes down the side of a steep ridge and is narrow rocky and quite exposed in part. I took it very slowly and carefully and noted that there was an improvement scheme in operation. Unfortunately the work force hasn't got very far.But eventually I can get across to the burn of Kilbo. Not a great deal of flat ground but I don't need much (an advantage of being 5' 1")  So I settle by the watercourse in a very dramatic corrie. Well fed and  content. 

Day 12 and a disappointing scone

I meant to take a photo of my pitch when I woke up as it was a dramatic site. Deep sided corrie with crags and quite a bit of snow above. But alas I woke to mist  coming over the tops. My tent is clear but the dramatic view is a blanket of grey cloud.  It's also a lot cooler today with a brisk breeze on the tops. But it's still dry. I have only worn waterproof trousers once on this trip and that was for thick wet mist rather than pouring rain. But today I have worn extra fleece, gloves and hat for the first time. Pack up and trundle down the path that leads through the forest and down to where the old youth hostel used to be. Meet a few hillgoers coming up and the party who are repairing the path. I tell them how much it is needed and how I appreciated their work. A quiet amble along Glen Clova looking at fish swimming in the drainage ditch alongside the road and at Driesh trying to work out the way I descended the last time I was there which I think was straight to the road bridge. I wondered if I should have stayed high last night but it was only a fleeting thought (and I would have been very thirsty). Turn into the Clova hotel for tea and scones. Disappointing scones. Very dry. Not a great deal of butter. Three other challengers.  A pleasant pair on their way to Tarfside and a chap who when I said I was heading for the Water of Saughs said it was dull. The man has no soul. Just remembered to phone walk control. Phone box useless but hotel let's me use their phone. I set off up the steep path to Loch Brandy along with all the day trippers variously dressed for the mist and sharp wind. Nearly at the top of Green Hill I meet my determined friend Esther who was going to keep to the road but had changed her mind and was heading for Tarfside.  I offer to walk with her for a while but I think she has had enough of my pace and says she is having a rest and a biscuit.  I was quite worried about her as it's a longish walk to Tarfside and the navigation is not obvious. She may be steady of pace but my friend Esther is very determined and of course she gets there and has a place on the last sitting for dinner at St Donat's (as I discover). I make good progress along an obvious path, stop, check, and realise I am heading back to Glen Clova. Make some adjustments and this time get it right. I am carrying along the top of the corries to climb up to Ben Tirren the Goet. Was there a hideous double fence last time I went here? - I think not. . At the top I am greeted by feverish barking and a solo lady walker claiming her dogs were only being friendly. I am suitably polite. We agree it has turned very chilly. I then climb a ladder stile and head NE down a long ridge to the water of Saughs. (pronounced socks)

This is a hidden valley which at the top is a young frisky  babbling burn in a fairly steep sided glen. It of course broadens out and arrives at the Shieling of Saughs where I had intended to camp. It's a good spot. 

 The building has been restored by the estate and is a stable with open front and turf roof. Very attractive building.  It's only about 3 so I  continue down the valley. It's managed for grouse shooting and some of the estate tracks are a bit brutal although they make for easy walking. However in my research I read that the old stalkers path has been maintained by the estate for some reason concerned with the lady of the estate using it for her morning constitutional. (thanks to Alan Sloman for this information)  I find this path which zig zags very easily down a rocky nose to some perfect green pitches by a burn beneath.  So that is where I settle (well I think I am settled) for the night.

Day 13 in which I conclusively establish that I am definitely not bagging Grahams

Midnight. I am sound asleep when I was woken by vehicle lights and the sound of vehicles' engines ticking over. I come too and think about looking out but it strikes me that there are few legitimate areas of work on a grouse moor that take place at midnight and that the estate worker who had seen me walking with my tent earlier on had been very friendly.  I therefore concluded that my midnight visitors were up to no good and I should avoid any encounter. So I lay low. Vehicles climb up on the track above me and return and then - and this is a bit worrying - drive up to within a couple of hundred yards of my tent. and eventually they go away. Met a fellow challenger in Brechin and he had a similar experience in the  next glen a bit earlier in the evening so we concluded that they were off roaders arsing around.  But it made for a rather disturbed night. I had intended to take photos of my pitch in the morning but once again it was misty first thing so they are not good.

 Pack up and trundle down to the roadhead. I say road but as it is a dead end road leading into an estate that likes to paint all it's houses and cottages pink and it was actually more of a private track. I may not have approved of the estate's choice of colour but I certainly approved of its approach to wildlife. I have never seen such a profusion of birds.  I recognised stonechats lapwings curlews oystercatchers but that was just the start. Umpteen variety of wading birds and ducks and it was clear that the estate was looking after them. Lots of spring flowers still out including loads of primrose. I had intended to climb a Graham called Hill of Wirren and I arrived at the point I should have started to climb. A new and ugly track climbed a dull looking hill managed for grouse shooting. The top was in cloud.  Should I climb up into the cloud to visit the top of  an unexciting hill or should I stay with the lapwings and primroses. What would you had done? I dropped to the water's edge got out my stove and had a brew and watched the ducklings.

I carry on in an ambling fashion to 2 huge hill forts The Brown and White Caterthuns that I wanted to see and which were part of the reason for coming this way. I dump the pack and spend some time looking round them. I like hill forts. The White Caterthun has (apparently) evidence of vitrification although I couldn't detect any. I have a good friend who is a bit of an expert but he wasn't available to consult. So in his absence I stop and have lunch.

What to do now? Had I gone up the Hill of Wirren I was planning to camp in this area. But it is early and  I am getting into cattle and arable country and the chances of getting a wild pitch are very thin. So new plan Is to walk to Brechin where there is a campsite marked on the map and I will be left with an easy walk to Montrose tomorrow. 

A few quiet lanes later I arrive in Brechin.  Not an enterprising town Brechin. The lady at tourist information has no idea if the caravan park takes tents and all the cafes ares shut or shutting at 4pm. Never mind. Get to campsite - they do accommodate tents. Find a pitch and meet  Geoff another challenger who got married on the Challenge (not the only one apparently). You can tell how far into the challenge we have gone when he tells me that the showers are not much cop and I think - well I had a shower in Braemar 3 days ago - I don't really need a shower. Geoff and I have a meal together and he then finds the Alan Sloman party who are creeping round Brechin with a self imposed rule not to cross the 60th Northing (stylish). 

 Day 14 Arrival at Kinnaber Links

Only Geoff and me camping and I was taking it easy as it was a short last day but he was up and away at 7 while I was having my first brew. I just carried on and in good time left for Kinnaber Links.Walking in the lowlands of Scotland is not easy. I find the last day or 2 the most difficult to plan. There is no established system of footpaths as we have in England and Wales. You see tracks and paths marked on a map but have no idea if there is public access or whether you encounter a set of gates with "private no admission sign" and padlocks

In the Angus area is a project called the heritage paths project involving opening and signing paths. The problem is that it is very local so Brechin has a scheme as does Montrose but the don't really join up and it is very difficult to get up to date information.  Also the signage is not ideal. So one path I hope to use outside Brechin divided. It was signed to the place I didn't want to go to which worried me that the branch I wanted was blocked. So I went round the road and found I could have used the path. Some estates are very welcoming of walkers others are not. I left Brechin on a cycle route which used an old railway and minor lanes so that was fine. I then headed down a farm track which I had some worries about whether it would work but it led me to a fine scenic grassy track. Then some road waking.  It has to be said the roads are generally very quiet. Get to a village called Hillside where my map shows a path towards the beach. I am just standing at the start of marked path scratching my head when a trio of challengers (team Sloman) come along to explain that the old path has been blocked by housing but there are some new paths through a fruit farm. So I get there in the end. You need a lot of local knowledge for this last section. However arrived at the beach. In fact 7 of us arrived at the same time and the whisky was passed round. Some then went to the tea shop some walked along the beach. I just stayed quietly for a bit before trundling into Montrose and the event centre the Park Hotel. Spent rest of afternoon sorting out my life. Very jovial celebration dinner. I was quite an early bird and headed for bed at midnight when the music had only just got going. 

Had a splendid crossing. Visited places I hadn't been to for years - in some cases decades. Revisited places I had forgotten I had been to - until I arrived again. Visited places I had never been to. Put together a route joining the new and old - and this is what it is all about. Moments of despair - the dropping of the pack - of enormous relief - finding it again. Of acute anxiety (the journey to Inverness). Most of all a gradual settling into the rhythm of the journey.

"Little do ye know your own blessedness; for to travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive, and the true success is to labour."

Quite right - although it was good to have a beer and a shower in Montrose.