TGO 2018 Glen Elg to Kinnaber Links

TGO 2019

Morar to Catterline

9th May 2019 - the journey

Shrewsbury

So the place with the fewest starters in 2018 was Morar. Good. That means I start from Morar in 2019 which is very satisfactory as it was top of my list of desirable start points (I mean no disrespect to anywhere else). Route in within days of getting a place - well I had been tinkering with it since June 2018. All approved with some very helpful and constructive comments from my vetter, Colin. All set and ready to go

Crewe

Glasgow Queen Street

Different approach to the journey this year. I don't need to catch the sleeper to get to Morar which is no bad thing as the sleepers seem to be in total confusion on account of their upgrade. Instead it is train early morning to Crewe, then Glasgow and a walk over to Queen Street station which is thronged with challengers. I haven't booked a seat on the Morar train - it would have been wise to do so however I found a seat in the right half and in the TGO coach and had a great journey. Challengers of all shapes sizes ages - some very experienced, some complete novices. Americans, Germans, Netherlanders - and a lady coming round with home made cake. Photos being taken out of windows - quite a bit of residual snow on the tops- a general party atmosphere. We lost half the train at Fort William, quite a gang at Lochailort. Most were then staying on for Mallaig but 2 of us left at Morar. Apparently there were 5 starters from Morar - I saw 3 of the others at various paces between Morar and Montrose but it wasn't a crowded start. Found Innisfree B and B down a lane between the hotel and the sea where I was made very welcome and comfortable. Dumped my pack and went to dip my toe in the water before dinner at the Morar hotel. Not such a good vibe. 

Morar

The hotel is a bit of a story. Was in the same family for years and it was a basic place but doing OK. However it had been through a number of changes of ownership and was shut for 3 months over winter for refurbishment. According to my landlady it has aspirations to go upmarket.  That means pretentious and overpriced to judge by the room rates and the meal I had. Place was like a morgue and the manager knew nothing about the TGO register that the hotel has kept for decades.  He didn't seem to know much about anything actually. 

10th May Day 1

I stopped about I mile short of my intended pitch. Partly to get water as it is very scarce on the ridge and partly because I am a bit knackered.  I thought my plan for today was modest and that I might go a bit further but I had forgotten quite how rough are the rough bounds of Knoydart. I started in a leisurely fashion as it was raining and also because 5 people were starting at Morar and I didn't want to be in a bunch. Having dipped my toe in the sea the previous night I consumed an enormous and very good breakfast without rush and eventually got round to the hotel to sign out. (Failed - see above). Anyway I phoned in that I was starting and set off just before 10 and just as a heavy shower started so for a short time I was in waterproof trousers. I climbed to the village view point with its cross - seemed polite to do so and I thought I might be able to cut down to the road to the church - but no. So retraced steps and went West past an impressively large Catholic church and down the dead end road down the side of the loch. It was achingly beautiful. 

The road runs along the North side of Loch Morar.  On the other side the hills just drop into the sea. There were whispy clouds green vegetation and fine rain. By the time I got to the road end the rain had stopped and I simply don't know why I have never been here before.  You may think the Barrisdale path is fine - and so it is -  but you should try this one. It is magnificent. Well engineered it clings round the headland on a fine ledge. It passes the old ruined Catholic chapel and a couple of deserted settlements  and the views up and down the loch are - well you have to be there. However all good things end and this path climbs to drop to the other side of the ridge at Tarbet, continues a bit and soon ends. I decided to start climbing the ridge at the highest point of the path. It meant (I thought) not losing height. There was a cairn and-this is what really persuaded me to start the climb here- a stile over the deer fence. The ground on the other side looked a bit steep but if there is a stile it must be a used route (hillgoing fallacy number 3). Used by a few mountain goats perhaps?  There were a few human footmarks lower down but where those individuals ended up is mystery of the day. I clung on with my fingernails debating whether it was safer to climb or descend. Working on the well tried basis that is probably safer to climb than descend  I carried on but I was very glad to get on safer ground even though I then had to climb a very tall deer fence. I saw a gate once I was over. Once over and highest point reached I realised that I would now have to descend a significant and unwelcome way before making further progress East. 

Everyone says this ridge is hard and they are right. To the west on the lower section it is hardest as it is full of little tops which basically you have to climb or you go totally off line. It is crossed by steep sided river courses which you go in and out of. Progress is very slow.  There are however many compensations. The golden eagle circling lazily over head was one. The retrospective view to Eigg with its distinctive shape etched against the sky. Some stonechats who kept me company. The cuckoo's. And as it got higher the ridge became more defined and easier going. I struggled to find decent water but eventually put up the tent under Sgurr na Ba Ruaidhe  where I found a spring (sort of) and gave the water a very good boil. That apart I have a fine pitch. Ahead there is the finest dusting of snow on Sgurr na h aide it. It has been warm The afternoon cooled down but the evening was still and dry. I am very disorganised.  First I lost a tent peg, then my spoon but found that. I got my toothbrush out put it down and turn everything upside down but no sign of it. Never mind - will have another look in the morning

11th May Day 2

As I settled down last night in my very comfortable pitch I thought it was getting a bit cold. I snuggled up in my sleeping bag wearing vest fleece Paramo jacket trousers and socks. Pulled up hood of paramo and sleeping bag and slept like a log. Woke to ice inside and outside the tent. Frozen boots but not too bad. Frost on grass and sheets of ice in pool. I
Was at about 650 -700m so not desperately high. There was fresh snow on some of the higher tops. However as soon as the sun hit the tent everything warmed up and I was away by 8am. I carried on along the ridge. I had been up this ridge from Glen Dessary over the Corbett Bidein a Chabhair and as far as the next top Sgurr na h Aide and then reversed the route. I was prepared for very dramatic top that was Sgurr na h aide with a bit of scrambling you could bypass to the South. I was going well. The weather warm and sunny.  Should be down in Glen Dessary by 10.30 I thought and there is a Munro and Corbett on the North side of Glen Dessary I want to go up this afternoon.  Oh foolish girl. Sgurr na h Aide was as dramatic as I remembered and I took appropriate care as I made my way to the Corbett.  What I did not remember until I saw it was the descent line down the nose of a great prow of rock. In fact it was perfectly OK but not to be rushed.  And the rest of the ridge was not to be rushed either at least not by me. I was getting very thirsty and there was no water to be found till I was practically in Glen Dessary.  And because I had dropped into a water course to look for water I had made the last bit of the descent rather tortuous. At last I was down. It had taken me 5 hours to cover about 10 k. My route then was supposed to be up Sgurr nan Coirechan. In your dreams. 

To summarise.  The ridge from Morar to Glen Dessary is absolutely magnificent.  I am extremely pleased to have done it.  I would probably say it is the best ridge walk I have done in Scotland.  However it should not be underestimated.  Morar is said to be the hardest of any of the TGO starting points  and I can see why. TGO wisdom says you should not attempt the ridge unless the forecast is for 2 clear days. It would be mad to attempt it without good visibility.  I didn't see anyone else on it. I feel very satisfied and privileged to have enjoyed such a great mountain experience.  

In the afternoon I walked down Glen Dessary and up between the Corbetts Sgurr Cos na. Breachd Laoigh and Fraoch Bheinn.  This was where I was supposed to end up tonight but I had planned to come along the ridge not straight up from the Glen. Plan for tomorrow is to carry on East over Fraoch Bheinn and Sgurr Mhurlagain. I could do an out and back without the pack to Sgurr Cos na Breachd Laoigh but perhaps I shouldn't spoil a good thing. See what I feel like in the morning.  By the way  I found my toothbrush. 

Day 3 12th May
Now this was a cracker. More ice on the tent this morning until the sun got going

Decided to backtrack towards one of the tops I failed to visit yesterday.. My  vetter Colin said he envied me Druim a Chuirn as he had never been on it so I owed it to Colin to pay it a visit. After breakfast I set out without a pack climbed 500m and visited Druim a Chuirn and gawped at the views. Thought about going out to the Corbett which is only a few metres higher but decided I didn't have the time if I was to do everything I wanted to do today.  So back to the tent, another cup of tea to pack up and climb steeply  but steadily up the side of the next Corbett Fraoch Beinn. I got onto the ridge at about 700m and by chance it is the place where there is a  cairn which seems to indicate a safe descent eastwards.  The rest of the East face is plastered with crags and boiler plates so I leave my pack by  the cairn having taken a grid ref on my GPS 'phone thingy (App - must remember)  and do a leisurely out and back to the top. Return to the pack and descend (with pack) to the bealach between it and Sgurr Mhurlagain.  I remember this peak well as it was my last Knoydart Corbett. We had a hot trip but as we went up Sgurr Mhurlagain over a number of false tops it snowed. Today the sun continues to shine. From the top I continued along the ridge which goes ENE. It is a very fine ridge. Steep sided, grassy easy walking fabulous views but  no one apart from a backpacker would ever get there.  As it drops eastwards the ground gets rougher and less pleasurable before crossing an area of currently dried peat hags to Loch Blair.  Not sure if this is natural or a reservoir.  Obviously used for fishing as a boat is tied up and there are vehicle tracks. Colin warned met the ground would be very wet. Not today.  In fact I had to search hard for decent water. 

Now I had planned to  camp here and climb Meall Blair on my way to Spean bridge.  I feel fine to carry on but I am worried that if I climb I will have no water. So I pitch as planned at  Loch Blair and take an evening stroll up Meall Blair. Colin was rather disparaging about Meall Blair. He was right about the strange deer scratching posts but I think he would have appreciated the evening view of the Ben with a light covering of snow.  It's been a long day but I feel good to know I am in the heart of a wild area taking routes that only someone with a tent would think of.

Day 4 13th May
The day I find that there are actually other challengers around and they are all passing through Spean Bridge.
Slept well by Loch Blair. A much warmer night, no ice on the tent this morning.  A lot of road walking today but on very quiet roads and a quite delightful path into Spean bridge.  I started by dropping to the side of Loch Arkaig using an unmapped vehicle track and then it was easy quiet going alongside the loch with ducks for company and a little foray into a butterfly sanctuary.  I must say I have seen all sorts of butterflies on this trip including all sorts I don't remember seeing before and I forgot to mention my second golden eagle yesterday.

From Loch Arkaig I cut over the bridge and past the Cameron museum and followed the Great Glen way to Gairlochy. Actually I stayed on the road as it was very quiet and the path was up and down and roundabout in the woods. At Gairlochy by the canal I met everyone having seen no one since Friday.  Ali, one of the organisers, John the American I walked with on my first challenge, Sue- we last met on the 6 dales challenge walk, Colin who is always so dapper and his friend Steve and several others sitting in the picnic stop. I stopped, took a layer of clothes off, found my sun hat and sun block. In little groups people set off. On the map the choice from here is road past the commando memorial or a path that skirts the top of the hill. Others continued on the road but I had enough of roads and took the path that initially looked very uninviting as it was a wet cattle chewed up track. However it took me to a path not marked on my map which was a real find. It carried along an old railway track through shady birch woods. The river in a dramatic gorge was below. I passed the ruins of Wade's high bridge and various other interesting places. There were interpretative  signs and a bench to enjoy the view. And this amazing find carried on to the outskirts of Spean Bridge.  So I headed to the b and b who looked after me very well.

Day 5 14th May

A 2 Munro day. Stob Coire Sgriodain and Chno Dearg which are the 2 above Fersit.  But first some social commentary.  My b and b, Coire Glas Guest House was excellent. Did my washing, booked me into Station Restaurant for dinner, provided everything I could want including little bottle of body lotion that I had great pleasure in massaging into my feet (thought they deserved a bit of pampering).  It was full mainly with parties walking the Great Glen way. They expected to be picked up from Gairlochy and ferried back the following morning despite the existence of the excellent path I wrote about yesterday. They all had stacks of luggage which was being transferred from place to place by one of these sherpa companies. Despite a huge breakfast they all had packed lunches.  Next to me at breakfast was an Australian group.  Loudest,a woman who spoke at great length about the inadequacies of their accommodation on this and other trips, the inadequacies of their travel company, of the pubs and cafes they had visited.  Not a word about the walk, the scenery,the wildlife or the weather.  And when one of her table got a word in and mentioned a place name it was apparent that she had absolutely no sense of and no interest in the geography of the area.  I told my host when I was paying and he said they had marked her down as a complainer as soon as she arrived. He also commented that I would not consider them to be "proper" walkers. I liked my host.

But to my route. Colin my vetter was a bit uncertain about it as I planned to use the old railway line that skirts around the hill to the south of Glen Spean all the way to Fersit. He said it may be in a bad state and I would spend lots of time and energy negotiating broken bridges etc. I had a plan b to cross the river at Monessie and walk along the road. But it was not  necessary.  The road to Corriechoile and Insh is a delightful walk along the river. At Insh I climbed an easy track to the dismantled railway, took off most of my clothes slathered myself with sun block and set off.  It is true that on 3 or 4 occasions the railway line crossed a gully and I had to climb down and up but only one involved any diversion from the main route as I had to climb a little to find a safe crossing. Other than a few very minor obstacles I bowled along for about 8 miles. 

The line goes to a dam in Coire Laire where it is an.easy river crossing and a quiet valley.  I thought at this stage the old line might disappear into forestry but no, it carried on taking me to Fersit for lunch.  By which I mean I sat in the shade by someone's drive drinking lots of water from their outside tap. It was too hot to eat but I kept myself properly hydrated. Then starts the slow ascent of Stob Coire Sgriodain.  Apparently I last climbed this route on the 27th April 2000,  but as I start up the ridge and make route choices and particularly where I come out just before the summit I think - I remember this.  It was another hot day and we looked over to Beinn na Lap and laughed at the idea that was briefly entertained of combining it with Stob Coire Sgriodain.  

It is long time since I did  a Munro on a fine day up a Munro baggers path. I am of course rather a late starter compared to the day walkers.  See 2 walkers coming down as I go up and I get to the first summit at 4.30.

Plan is to do the other summit Chno Dearg and start dropping to Strath Ossian and pitching as soon as I can. To my amazement I find water on the very high area between the 2 Munros.  It's.not brilliant but it's running and there is a flat grassy area as well.

 It's 5 o'clock and who knows when I might find another pitch. So I stick the tent up have a cup of tea. In fact several cups of tea and thus refreshed I decide it would be a very sound move to climb Chno Dearg out and back without the pack -as I could do a recce of possible descent lines. I had planned to drop on the South East ridge and maybe get down to the Allt a GhIas choire. Looking down from Chno Dearg I am not too sure about it but I have another option even though it's a bit of  walk either over or round Chno Dearg but it is far better done first thing in the morning. 

Day 6 15th May

A full day. Excellent pitch  - 924metres and it is warm and calm. Wake early to find it is sunny.  Getting to be expected. Up and organised I decide not to try the descent ridge off Chno Dearg that I have my doubts about so I cross the mountain contouring round the top to the North and drop down it's East side where the descent to Strath Ossian is very straightforward.  As I descend I look back to the line I had originally intended.  Actually it would have been fine, in fact it would have involved a descent to an upper Coire with deer dotted all over a large patch of residual snow.  However it would have been a long descent and I probably used less time and energy in my route despite longer distance.  Strath Ossian was a bit of a shock. I did not expect to find running through this glorious scenery a substantial road and a Jewson truck and several other vehicles roaring up and down to Corrour lodge a huge shooting lodge at the North end of Loch Ossian.  In fact I think it was being built last time I was in the area. I walked down to the lodge dodging the clouds of dust sent up by the vehicles.  Had a chat with an estate employee near the lodge.I thought he was a bit defensive and was talking about the trees they had planted. He was very pleasant and interested in what I was doing. In about a km I met more people than I had for days. Next was a 60ish Munro bagger who was camped nearby but having low level walk today in the heat. Then another challenger who had stayed at the youth hostel and was walking through the Bealach Dubh. It appears that the old stalkers path to the Bealach Dubh is now a road! 

Then I headed uphill and as I got onto the ridge of Meall Glas Coire I met Gordon.  He told me quite a few had been staying at the YHA and were planning to do the ridge.  I suspect they changed their minds because I only saw Gordon. We walked together for a short way then I stopped for a brew. The only water was a pool of snow melt and I was thirsty and wanted to boil it. Gordon went on. I had some lunch and followed over a wonderful high ridge with particularly good views of Ben Alder. Now all went well and enjoyably till the drop between Geal Charn and the most easterly Munro Carn Dearg. I had read up about the route and knew you went down a narrow rocky ridge but not to worry as despite the rock there was a good path. I must have done it.  I couldn't remember it but I certainly went out to the Culra bothy and crossed this ridge.  Colin had warned me that in poor visibility it was difficult to locate the top of the path. Well I had perfect visibility and I couldn't see it. From Geal Charn I aimed off a bit to the 1114 spot height thinking all I need do is handrail the crags and I couldn't miss it. However all I could see was a great intimidating rock buttress. I'm not going down there I thought.  And it didn't feel right. There was no Munros baggers path and there had been for the rest of the ridge. There was no cairn no sign of footmarks. I certainly wasn't going to do a speculative foray down the rock face. Perhaps I should have done and I could see Gordon ahead of me strolling up the next Munro with his hands in his pockets without a care in the world.

  I searched around and eventually decided I had got this all wrong, looked carefully at the map for another route which I found. I dropped down a water course towards Loch an Sgoir to  the south of the alleged path and then, of course, I could see it so I contoured across a rocky shelf and some rather steep turf to reach it. A few footmarks suggested I was not the first. What a cock up.However it was then an easy amble up the next Munro and down towards Loch Pattack. Time was now getting on and I promised myself that the first good water and reasonable pitch I would stop. So I dropped a bit north off the ridge into an area called Coire Odhar where there is good water a bit of flat ground and an easy descent to Loch Pattack tomorrow.  

Footnote. I then fretted about the  Geal Charn descent and eventually decided that I must have done Carn Dearg separately from the other 3, so as soon as I got to Dalwhinnie I phoned home and made Chris (poor long suffering husband) get out my diary and check. And yes - Carn Dearg 9th July 2000 and the other 3 - 10th July 2000. 

Day 7 16th May

Last night was a lot more breezy than I have had hitherto but nothing excessive and a good night was had in Coire Odhar. Up bright and early I contoured down to the track along the Allt Cam and so to Loch Pattack.  The theme of the day is birds especially their song. Sky larks and loads of other birds at the loch and my first golden plovers of the trip when I climb all frantically trying to divert attention from their nest. A solitary tent by the loch but I don't see anyone.  Horses,  and a river crossing on a very rickety suspension bridge with lots of planks missing. A wander down the track along the river Pattack through a pair of pretentious and abandoned stone gate posts.

Then the climbing starts as of course I am going up the Fara. Could have walked down the side of Loch Ericht but Colin would not have approved.  It is an easy angle on a mixture of short turf and peat hags but it doesn't take too long to make progress.  The top is in some areas a struggle with a fierce buffeting wind. A warm wind but unpredictable.  One moment it has gone then it is really battering you. I am glad I did the narrow ridges yesterday and I am on a very broad one today. The Fara is a long rounded ridge with some gentle undulations along the top.  A good viewpoint and a fine walk but not the most spectacular hill. However a lot better today than my last visit when it was a grey damp miserable day. 

 

I remember ascending through a break in the forestry at An Tochailt so that is where I head down after a having a leisurely sit down on the hillside for a drink and food. As I get to the lochside path I meet Sheila, a very experienced challenger on her 22nd challenge.

We walk together to Dalwhinnie although she like a number of others I meet are picking up supplies and walking on to camp high. Sheila is hard core - the tent, the tent and nothing but the tent. I am a wimp and head to the hotel for a beer and a shower and a bed.

I do my washing and hang it to dry on the fence. No one seems to mind. Meet a host of challengers including Ali John and Sue, and Gordon whom I saw yesterday on the ridge. He also came over the Fara but later than me. Hotel is basic but friendly and very good value. 5 of us stay the night.  2 youngish chaps doing it together.  Experienced and very much into the philosophy of creating a fine journey through the landscape.  A poor chap whose feet were trashed and who had withdrawn and the Rev. Dave a Church of Scotland minister on his 10th challenge. A great feeling of common purpose - good meal, several beers and an early night.

Day 8 17th May

You know when you cross the A9 on the challenge and you are over half way the mood seems to change, at least mine does. I have left the exciting pointy peaks of the West coast.  It is different country and I am now very much into the rhythm of the journey. Dave and I are going the same way to begin with so we walked together along an aqueduct that runs from Dalwhinnie to Loch Chuaich. 

We parted - Dave heading North and I went up Meall Chuaich which is a rounded lump with fine views of the Cairngorms.  Bit of snow left but not much.  I chat to a father and son from Edinburgh who are heading further north on the A9 and having a leg stretch. Dad is very interested in my route and asks if I am going to the Glen with the monument to the landowner killed in an avalanche. "I know that monument" I say - hadn't actually realised it was on my route.I drop from the Munro to a stalkers path around the top of Coire Chuaich.  I must say I seem to have spent most of 

the day sitting in the sun and looking at views as almost every water course I crossed meant a drink and a biscuit.  See what I mean about getting into the rhythm of the journey. 

 I then cross high empty moorland.  Compass out to reach the top of the most improbable and spectacular stalkers path I have come across in a long while. (If you have time find out map 42 and look at NN740 845. You will see a path dropping down a very steep nose from 801m to about 450 in a great number of zig zags). Those stalkers knew it thing or two.Not a path to short cut between the zig zags. 

I then get to Gaick lodge turn South and see the memorial (last seen on a Corbett bagging trip from Dalnacardoch Lodge). I continue South then east up the Allt Garbh Ghaig. Now in the lower valley where there was flat grass and fine pitches and where I intended to stop. However it wasn't late it was a fine late afternoon and I was consumed with curiosity.  So I set out up the path rising above waterfalls.  Colin described it as exciting.  It is. It is also a path I have been on before I realise. I expect to have to get to the top of the gorge before finding a pitch but on a shoulder about half way up is a flat tent shaped bit of grass with a fine water course close by and views of the waterfalls.  So I put the tent up. I also  remember rather late in the day that Colin says there is a landslip you have to be careful with near the top. I shall leave that to when I am fresh in the morning.

Day 9 18th May

The weather has really changed.  Started raining after I put the tent up yesterday and was raining on and off all night.  Not hard but just there. And basically it has been a day of low cloud and rain. Not torrential rain but fairly persistent.  I congratulate myself that I had planned a low level route today.  Although Colin says "An adventurous route today. One of the remotest low level traverses in the challenge area. Tremendously enjoyable in fine conditions.  In poor weather though it  can feel like a very long way from anywhere. " 

Just so. I pack the tent from inside as far as possible and continue up the path by the waterfalls which is stunning even in rain.  As Colin has warned me there is a landslip in one  of the gullies that the path crosses and care is needed but I enjoy this part of the day.  I continue to enjoy the navigation across rough country at the top to take me to the top of the Feith Ghorm Ailleag path. This is fabulous.  Not a path I recognise.  It's good walking down a spectacular valley with a massive waterfall.

At this point I am still of the mind that this is my favourite day of the challenge despite the rain.  It doesn't get any worse. I drop to a complex path junction although my route is up the pathless Allt a Chuil.  Spend some time looking at route options here.  Originally plan to climb on the Minigaig path which is an ancient through route and then contour round to the north side of my valley but after setting off that way and checking out the look of various water courses I would have to cross I go a rather long way round to cross a bridge to get to the south side of my valley.  It was a good move as I climb quite steeply to pick up a good walkers path along the South side of the Allt a Chuill and despite the rain greatly enjoy this attractive route. Actually the photos don't look too wet - and there were a few dry intervals -till this point

I then cross the watershed and join the Tarf.  Do not let anyone tell you that the Mississippi is the longest river in the world.  It is the Tarf.  It meanders here there and everywhere.  There is no path and making progress particularly in the upper reaches is very slow.  After about 3 miles the valley broadens out and a bit of a walkers path appears. I should say I have been following a pair of large footprints (John's I think - would be a bit large for Sue or Ali) on and off all day so some one has walked this route ahead of me. In the rain the Tarf is fairly featureless.  There is a bothy called the Tarf hotel quite a way down.  It looks very posh but I would have to cross the river to have a look and then get back again. Do-able but I have dealt with quite enough crossings of various quite sizable side streams so I plod on. And the rain continues. Eventually I join a path that will take me to the Falls of Tarf and down to Glen Tilt. Plan had been get into Glen Tilt to pitch. The rain eases.  There is a patch of flattish grass by a spring near a ruin, I stop. The tent goes up. And initially - for what seems like hours - I can't find my stove. I saw it when I first unpacked the sack but it has deliberately hidden itself in the top of my sleeping bag. That first cup of tea was very welcome.

Day 10 19th May

I wake at 4.38 am. In "normal" life this is the middle of the night but I have been sound asleep since about 8.30pm. The sun is risen and it is all - now - part of one's diurnal rhythm (do I mean circadian?) No matter. I start getting up at 5. I was away at 6.17 and got to Braemar at 4.  The 3 or 4 K of the path from my pitch to Glen Tilt were described by Colin as "rough" and he was right.  Very slow going picking a line through boulders and heather although eventually I found a line rather higher than marked on the map which went better.  Rough but wonderful. The Tarf is now interesting.  In fact it is in a gorge with early morning mist and waterfalls.  I am very glad for all sorts of reasons that I didn't try this the previous evening. It would be very attractive at any time (possibly except last night) but particularly so at 7.30 on a misty morning with no one about. 






It takes me 2 hours to get to the spot I intended to pitch the previous night but as it's about 5 miles from where I actually stopped that is not surprising.  I miscalculated the distance last night. Any way I reach the spot where I have to decide low or high.  Should I head for Carn Bhac or make for White Bridge. No choice. I start steeply at first up Sron a Bhoididh but as it is (mostly) short springy heather and turf it is not hard. Now one of the reasons that I fancied going over Carn Bhac apart from the fact it is a logical line is that I have absolutely no recollection of this particular Munro. Well I now know why. It is pretty unmemorable.  A big lump which today is in cloud.  Having said this, the descent route to Glen Ey is of interest down an eastern ridge and traversing across to a good track not marked on my old map. I meet some locals coming up who tell me about it. It is then a very easy pleasant descent.  I meet a party of local Ramblers having lunch. The early cloud, mist and bits of drizzle have now lifted and a bit of sun is out so I dry my tent and air my sleeping bag.  Eventually down to Glen Ey and along the road to  Braemar.  A 22 mile day. And straight into Gordons, the challenge cafe of choice for tea and sandwich.  Thence to the YHA and back out for dinner - starter, main and apple crumble.

Day 11 20th May

Good night at Braemar yha.  When I got up for a pee I was joined by a lady cyclist of similar age who explained she had been waiting for someone else to make a move as she didn't want to wake every one up as a solo disturber of slumber. This of course encapsulates my problem with today. I want to go over Lochnagar. 

To explain .... We are asked by the estate not to pitch in the royal estate because of the "special sensitivities" of the area. There are 3 bothies we can use which of course  

will be jam packed.  One does not want to get the event into disrepute by ignoring the rules but on the other hand one does not want to stop in a bothy full of snoring farting challengers.  In particular one does not want to wake up desperate for a pee, eventually decide it has to be done and step over round and through sleeping challengers with the inevitable consequence that one will step on someone's face and trip over someone's pack and cause total mayhem. So the route I planned was to get me over Lochnagar and out of the royal estate but it was very long and I was worried that I would be left down at Loch Muick without the puff to get any further and with no option but the Glas Allt Shiel bothy . So change of plan.  Walk to Ballater and over Mount Keen tomorrow.  It was a sociable day. I start on the lions face walk, then a bit of road and into the Ballochbuie forest  parallel to the river. Meet lots of people I have met on various challenges and receive an invitation to go to a good pitch just outside  the estate which I decline but take note of the area for future reference. It is very pleasant and easy round Balmoral past the distillery and down to a minor road.  As road walking goes it is a good route through forestry and past a standing  stone and ruined chapel and other items of interest  but it is hard underfoot and I am glad to get to Ballater campsite. It probably has a royal warrant.  Everything else in Ballater has. It has been rather humid and overcast all day but with only a couple of light showers but is rains steadily in the evening. I spent a very pleasant few hours in the local pub, had a Lochnagar scotch and met loads more people and have learnt of another route avoiding the royal estate issue. So to bed and the plan is Mount Keen tomorrow and Mount Battock Wednesday before the coast on Thursday.

Day 12 21st May
A simple and straight forward day compared to many. It rained heavily all night but I was fine in the tent although I had to pack it wet this morning.  Challengers were moving early this  morning.  In fact 5.45 was the earliest cheerful hello. I would normally consider this a bit excessive but in fact I was awake and got packed up and away by 7.30. It was still raining as I set out along the empty streets of Ballater but the rain soon stopped as I headed for bridge of Muick and the track for Mount Keen.  The estate is very well organised for walkers - perhaps too much as the way is marked by notices saying "Mount Keen". It is an easy ascent on a good track with views back to the woods in the valley.  There is then an indistinct path over a boggy area where another bloke and I go a bit offline as we follow an illusory path. So a bit of heather bashing brings us back on course. He is faster than me and heads off at a cracking pace. I play piggy back with a party of 3 until the place where you start the serious ascent of Mount Keen. Here I meet the lovely Esther whom I met last year.  She is busy putting on her emergency spare clothing as she has just toppled over into a burn. We agree that it is essential to carry a light weight set of spare clothing in a dry sack for such an emergency.  Anyway after a chat and an effort by me to persuade her to go over the top rather than skirting round- she is not persuaded - I head uphill. I am later consumed by regrets. When I meet her later it is clear that she was shaken up quite badly by the incident - of course she didn't let on - and I should have stayed and walked with her. Sorry Esther.

I recalled that Mount Keen had a very eroded path to the top. Not any more. There is a superb engineered path that was being completed as we speak.  I just headed into the mist on the top, took a photo of a trig point in the gloom and headed South still on an excellent path to join a very rough track to Glen Mark. Glen Mark is pleasant with some dramatic crags at the side and the Queens Well where Victoria drank when apparently she did a trip from Ballater to Glen Mark.  I suspect she had a pony. You would not drink from it today.

The sun comes out and I trundle down to Glen Mark and the path to Tarfside chatting to a Danish policeman as I go. Tarfside is a challenge institution and people were streaming off every hill heading for it. It is a tiny village and for a couple of nights the village green is turned into a campsite. The local masons set up a temporary bar and barbecue which is where I ate and drank 2 years ago.This time I head for the other local facility.  It is St Drostans, a Christian retreat centre but for the challenge it is an impromptu cafe and meeting place.  I am booked on the 7.30 service for dinner having already dropped in for a late afternoon bacon butty and limitless tea. 

Putting my tent up was very atmospheric as someone was playing a medley of Scottish tunes on a tin whistle as people wandered in greeted old friends  and got organised. The meal in St Drostans was excellent.  Unfortunately I seem to have put my tent up alongside the regular route from tent to toilet so I had a steady set of passing visitors throughout the night - but so what. 

Day 13 22nd May

A  pretty dire start weather wise.Some rain overnight and more as I packed in the morning so I headed to the hills in full body armour.  For a few minutes I thought I had overdone it as I walked east from Tarfside past the Kirk and the school and a pool fuĺl of bird life. The bird life continues as I start up a pleasant grassy track heading for Mount Battock. I stop to photo the rainbow etched against dark clouds over Tarf side. Then things rather go downhill.  Well I am going up hill but now on an estate track.  The dark clouds are now overhead and the rain and wind are doing their best to cause maximum unpleasantness.  The actual climb to Mount Battock is very straightforward on a track over some subsidiary tops but it is a struggle in the wind and rain.  However I feel content that I am back on my own doing a proper challenge after the easy walking of the last 2 days. I only wish I had not packed my gloves at the very bottom of the rucksack as getting them out was not practical.  One of the reasons I went high, apart from the fact that it is supposed to be a challenge,  was for my first glimpse of the sea since starting out. 2 years ago on my first Challenge I sat in the shelter cairn and had an emotional 10 minutes or so as I looked at the sun on the sea. This time I got the briefest of glimpse of the sea from the subsidiary top before the cloud descended again.  I did not hang about. Dropped down and briefly saw another solo summiter ahead of me but not to talk to as he was going down a different way. No one behind me. 

As I lose height and head for the Charr bothy things are beginning to brighten up. Charr bothy is being used as a lunch stop and as I have a brew I must see about 10 challengers coming or going including my mate Russell.  I left the bothy  climbed Hound Hillock and made my.way to my camping spot. It is an area that no one else seems to use maybe because it is quite a jaunt to the coast for the last day. About 18 miles.  But if I start promptly I should get there by mid afternoon and the other choice in this area is Fetteresso forest which is forestry commission with a wind farm in the middle and a bit of a struggle to find water That or try to find something in the arable ground nearer the coast.  Personally I prefer my last wild camp to be a proper wild camp even if it is on the eastern fringe of the hills.

So I settle down beside the Black Burn of Arnbarrow. I love Scottish names. I assume it is called black burn as the water is a very dark peaty brown - but its good water. And a good last pitch

Day 14 23rd May

A rather better way to Clatterin Brig than my effort in 2017 and then quiet road and track walking through the Glen of Drumochty to Glenbervie and the charming little fishing village that is Catterline. Chris turned up - more or less in the right place and just before me (bit of a result) to greet me and after compulsory toe dipping and voluntary gannet watching accompanied me to the pub for Cullen Skink. Then to Montrose to bathe a) in a bath but) in that great warmth and company that is the Challenge spirit.  Have fun in 2020 - I wish I was with you.